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THE VILLAGES IN THE DOGON

Before you visit the villages it is a custom to meet and greet the chief ( dugu-tigi) and to give him a handful of kola nuts.

The cliff stretches over more than a two hundred kilometres. When you would like to visit  villages on the edge of the plateau and along the foot of the cliff, starting at Mopti all the way down and up to Bamba ,you would pass villages like:

Songo:
in Songo boys are circumcised at “Kondi Pegue” , a site with numerous rock paintings and where the boys are taught about the Dogon culture. Kondi Pegue is the only place, known in Africa, where rock paintings are made during the circumcision ritual. Not far from this place with the paintings are a few crevices, where all kinds of musical instruments, made from gourds, are stocked. The instruments are made by the boys and they play on them; passers-by give them money or food. Every time is the best instrument is being kept.

Kani Kombolé
:
a small village on a shadowy place at the plain; it has a wonderful little mosque. It is mostly visited when the trekking starts in Bankass.

Teli
:
a picturesque village with Tellem houses, which are sometimes still used as granaries or as a grave. It is quite a climb to visit the old area, but the houses are interesting. From the top you have got a great view over the plains and the village. There is a nice mosque also. The residents of the village maintain everything beautifully.

Endé:
is a bit like Teli, but it is larger. The granaries are even more elaborate in decorations, but unfortunately they are dilapidated and so it is not advisable to climb all the way to the top. There is a Hogon ( a spiritual leader ) however and you could visit him. It is not allowed to touch him or his chair, because that is used as an altar. At his feet you will find a calabash and you can donate some money or kola nuts. The village is famous for its bogolans and you can watch the whole process : from spinning the yarn, the weaving, the dyeing and the painting. Since a few years there is a small museum as well.

Djiguimombo:
is a village where the houses are build from dry stone; you will find a toguna (the palaver house for the elders), a menstruation house and a beautiful temple. It is taller than the average buildings and it contains an altar where the founders of the village are honored. On the outside of the front wall are eight niches, representing the eight Dogon ancestors. Inside some of the niches things have been placed.

Bagourou:
you will just pass the village probably, because the cliff is reserved as a cemetery for the Hogons and the “sacred women” and therefore it is a sacred place. In the villages live a couple of blacksmith families.

Yabatalou
:
the gab of Yabalatou is one of the most spectacular of the Dogon country. Several dozens metres above ground you have cross it on a wooden footbridge and then you have to go down between the rocks by a system of ladders. (or vice versa if you start from the valley).In the village you can see many men, weaving beautiful baskets. There is also a fetish-keeper , guarding a lot of fetishes. On the cliff is a menstruation-house. And at the encampment you can get a traditional shea-butter massage
.

Benigmato:
It is a climb of about 200 meters from the valley, but not to rough. The trail runs from the two villages of Konsogou; it is beautiful and winds between dams and irrigated fields. It is also a bit touristy. One of the main attractions is the hunter Thomas. His sentiments on the area are interesting.

Dioundourou:
a rather sandy path leads you to the village – a track for the persistent ones. You could also climb up the rock a bit. Once you have managed to reach this higher level, is the view magnificent

Guimini
:
has many unique old-style houses.

Indelou:

is a pretty village, located a dozen kilometres of Dourou, put down at the edge of the plateau, where you have a wonderful view over the plain until Burkina Faso.
It is rather unknown to the tourists, because of the difficulty of the track. You need to climb up a steep path, but then you reach this lovely, very animist village. There is small museum, where ancient coins, headrests, stairs, pottery etc. originating from the Tellem houses, are retained, in order to conserve the cultural heritage.
You really need a guide to show you around, because a lot of things and places are sacred; therefore they are taboo. Nothing should be touched and photographing is prohibited.

Konsogou
:
Konsogou-Do and Konsogou-Le are respectively located on the plateau and on the edge of the cliff. Two small villages as discrete as charming, rarely visited by tourists. These villages are neighbours to Indelou.

Dourou:
It is noisier than the other villages; the inhabitants, both adults and children, can sometimes be rather assertive. But despite that it is the best place to buy blankets of indigo. You can also see how the women dye these blankets. At the market they are mainly selling onions.

Nombori:
is often neglected, because you need to cross the dune that blocks the passage to the South. But if you do, you find a village at the foot of a dead straight cliff of proximately 500 metres. Glued to the cliff are the Tellem houses. Very important in the village is the museum; everyone has contributed and still does, because the inhabitants realize that conservation of their cultural heritage is important. There are 2 Hogons in the village and here you will get a good explanation about the initiation.
Nombori is a quiet, very beautiful and scenic place, which can be accessed from Dourou by a very nice winding road from the plateau.

Idyeli Na
:
you will see a lot of onion fields and vegetable gardens here. The story goes that the founder of the village wanted to catch a fish in a pond near to the waterfall. But after ten days he had not caught it yet, but he did find an onion that day. The following days he found a tomato and more vegetables. The man took everything home and planted them. This way he became the first farmer in the region.

Komo Kani:

a village like many villages on route. Tereli: a beautiful village, one of the most spectacular in the Dogon; the houses, with their pointed roofs, are spread out on the cliff. It is known for their potteries and famous for its masks-dances.

Amani:
known for the small pond with the sacred crocodiles; the fee for taking pictures is 1500 Cfa. Amani is very important to the Dogons, because the sacred masks, used for the Sigui festival, are kept here. The Sigui festival is held once in 60 years; next one in 2027.

Ireli
:
is a Unesco World Heritage site and it differs from the other villages along the slopes. The cliffs are much higher and steeper; they reach a height of 300 meters. The old Tellem houses are scattered out on a larger area. It is still hard to imagine how the Tellem climbers went up there to find shelter during enemy attacks. But they probably uses ropes, made of the Baobab bark and bast.

Banan
i:
is one of the gateways to the Dogon cliffs. Graneries, togunas, architecture, burial caves etc. – Banani has it all. It is a nice place to get in the “Dogon-mood”. If you arrive here after a trekking it might be a bit touristy.
You can reach or leave Banani either by road or by a steep, but wonderful footpath. A picture of the village was portrayed on a banknote of 1000 Cfa until 1984.

Sangha:

is located on the plateau and consist of a couple of little villages. A walk is beautiful and you can visit the mosque. In the District Ogol-du-Haut you can visit the Hogon, the temples and the ancestral altars.
In Ogol-du-Bas you find very special, admirable Dogon architecture.
Near Sangha are also a few circumcision houses
Sangha is mainly used as a starting point or an end point for trekking; it is a convenient place for tourist. It is rather touristy, but is has electricity. But during the rainy season a spectacular waterfall flows from the plateau.

Arou:
is the place where the highest Hogon resides. The high Hogon is the important decision-maker for the Dogon, and is consulted as a representative of the Dogon in political matters.
You need to climb rather high to reach the ginna (the house of the Hogon). At the foot of a large baobab tree is a circular path and you need to enter in a clockwise direction. The other way around is reserved for people of a special status. The Hogon will be either at the ginna or in the toguna. The temple of Arou is the largest one in the Dogon. It has 9 rounded points on top of the rectangular-shaped façade, with 8 ostrich eggs on top of the points; above the door are 8 narrow openings, representing the 8 ancestors. To thank the Hogon it is customary to give him some money and, a few kola nuts.

Ibi
:
the village is widespread and less touristy than Koundou. You can visit the Hogon, installed in a shelter under a rock near the large porch. In the pools at the foot of the village live a few sacred crocodiles in the shade of mango trees and there are catfish in the little stream of Boboye, an hour’s walk from the village.

Koundou
:
is a large non- Muslim village with only 250 inhabitants; because it is situated between the boulders, it is difficult to get there. The inhabitants are farmers. In the morning the Peul women come to the encampment to sell milk. If you ask them they will pose for a photo. All around the village you can find beautiful Dogon art.

The 3 Youga
: there are in fact three separate villages, located on an isolated piece of the escarpment, facing the village of Yendouma at the cliff.
YougaPiri
has beautiful remains of Tellem houses, granaries and Hogon burial places. From there you have to climb to the plateau of the hill before you reach -
YougouDougorou
by a spectacular walk. This track is probably the most beautiful of the Dogon, but it requires a sure footing. The descent will be made by means of Dogon ladders and leads to the heart of the Tellem ruins, facing the plain. Most of the inhabitants live on the plain, but there are still a few families living on the cliff.They say that the ceremony and festival of Sigui originated here.
Youga Na
is installed on an intermediate terrace, on course for return towards Koundou.
The trek to the 3 Youga villages is difficult, (it can not be reached by 4x4), but the climbing of the cliff is really worth the effort.

Yendouma
:
a very beautiful village on a hillside, opposite the mountain villages Youga. The hamlet of Yendouma Atô, is undoubtedly most beautiful.  Yendouma is a day's walk from Sangha on the plateau.

Tiogou
:
you probably will only pass Tiogou on the way to Yendouma. Just before reaching the village, where all inhabitants are animists, you will see the enormous vegetable gardens, where many people are diligent at work. They can rest in the shadow of a large group of mango trees nearby. It is a peaceful area, because there are no other villages in site. A colourful view of the valley with its red earth and green vegetable gardens are a nice contrast with the black rocks and yellow fields.

Damasongo
:
a very traditional place, surrounded by onion fields.

Yenda
:
according to tradition the sacred crocodiles comes here to die.

Bamba
:
is composed of several rather outlying neighbourhoods, crouched at the foot of the cliff. It has one of the most important markets of the Dogon. From here, other villages, dotted on of the plateau or hidden between the rocks, can be visited.

Kendie:
This municipality occupies a large part of the plateau and is composed of 35 villages, It stretches on a vast sandstone plateau; the terrain is very rugged and is strewed with by many valleys and cliffs, on which villages are built.Travel between villages can only be done via bush paths, most only on foot. Practically every family has a few head of cattle. Home industry is limited to some traditional jobs like the weavers, the blacksmiths and the sculptors.
Because there is hardly any tourism on the plateau of Kendié, it also means no facilities or accommodation. But the recent opening up of the town by a track of 40 kilometres to Bandiagara, makes the area more accessible.
There are more tracks - so starting a trekking from Kendié means that you only can reach the other villages by climbing natural (i.e. Dogon) stairs until Borko

Borko:
is about 50 kilometres from Douentza, partly by tarred road, partly sand road. The village lies in a green oasis, because there are a lot of water wells. So you can see many vegetable gardens, fields with onions, palm trees, mango trees etc. The area is beautiful. It is also known for its sacred crocodile pond. You need to pay if you want to feed these animals.

Tintam
:
This rather isolated village lies on the plateau and is difficult to access. The architecture and its statuary art in the village is beautiful and was influenced by different cultures. At the outskirts of the village you can see the slag heaps and fragments of old furnaces; these are the remnants of an old flourishing metallurgical industry : iron was used for the manufacturing of arms and agricultural implements.

These two villages are mainly the starting.point of a trekking

Bankass
is mainly used as the point of passage towards the villages of the cliff such as Kani-kombolé, Endé, etc. Facilities and accommodations are okay

Bandiagara
:
is a small town located 60 kilometres from Mopti, on the edge of the great escarpment and is mainly used as a starting point for the trekking. The name of the town can be translated roughly to "large eating bowl” referring to the bowls, in which communal meals are served.  There is not a lot to do – besides visiting the ruins of the “Palais d’Agibu” ( not far from the toguna Nangabanu) , a nice walk around town to see the large market, with the colourful stalls and the people.

dogon tellem      indigo verven

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