THE VILLAGES IN THE DOGON
Before you visit the villages it is a custom to meet and greet the chief ( dugu-tigi) and to give him a handful of kola nuts.
The cliff stretches over more than a two hundred kilometres. When you would like to visit villages on the edge of the plateau and along the foot of the cliff, starting at Mopti all the way down and up to Bamba ,you would pass villages like:
Songo:
in Songo boys are circumcised at “Kondi Pegue” , a site with numerous rock
paintings and where the boys are taught about the Dogon culture. Kondi Pegue is
the only place, known in Africa, where rock paintings are made during the
circumcision ritual. Not far from this place with the paintings are a few
crevices, where all kinds of musical instruments, made from gourds, are stocked.
The instruments are made by the boys and they play on them; passers-by give them
money or food. Every time is the best instrument is being kept.
Kani Kombolé:
a small village on a shadowy place at the plain; it has a wonderful little
mosque. It is mostly visited when the trekking starts in Bankass.
Teli:
a picturesque village with Tellem houses, which are sometimes still used as
granaries or as a grave. It is quite a climb to visit the old area, but the
houses are interesting. From the top you have got a great view over the plains
and the village. There is a nice mosque also. The residents of the village
maintain everything beautifully.
Endé:
is a bit like Teli, but it is larger. The granaries are even more elaborate in
decorations, but unfortunately they are dilapidated and so it is not advisable
to climb all the way to the top. There is a Hogon ( a spiritual leader ) however
and you could visit him. It is not allowed to touch him or his chair, because
that is used as an altar. At his feet you will find a calabash and you can
donate some money or kola nuts. The village is famous for its bogolans and you
can watch the whole process : from spinning the yarn, the weaving, the dyeing
and the painting. Since a few years there is a small museum as well.
Djiguimombo:
is a village
where the houses are build from dry stone; you will find a toguna (the palaver
house for the elders), a menstruation house and a beautiful temple. It is taller
than the average buildings and it contains an altar where the founders of the
village are honored. On the outside of the front wall are eight niches,
representing the eight Dogon ancestors. Inside some of the niches things have
been placed.
Bagourou:
you will just pass the village probably, because the cliff is reserved as a
cemetery for the Hogons and the “sacred women” and therefore it is a sacred
place. In the villages live a couple of blacksmith families.
Yabatalou:
the gab of Yabalatou is one of the most spectacular of the Dogon country.
Several dozens metres above ground you have cross it on a wooden footbridge and
then you have to go down between the rocks by a system of ladders. (or vice
versa if you start from the valley).In the village you can see many men, weaving
beautiful baskets. There is also a fetish-keeper , guarding a lot of fetishes.
On the cliff is a menstruation-house. And at the encampment you can get a
traditional shea-butter massage
These two villages are mainly the starting.point of a
trekking
Bankass
is mainly used as the point of passage towards the villages of the cliff such as
Kani-kombolé, Endé, etc. Facilities and accommodations are okay
Bandiagara:
is a small town located 60 kilometres from Mopti, on the edge of the great
escarpment and is mainly used as a starting point for the trekking. The name of
the town can be translated roughly to "large eating bowl” referring to the
bowls, in which communal meals are served. There is not a lot to do –
besides visiting the ruins of the “Palais d’Agibu” ( not far from the toguna
Nangabanu) , a nice walk around town to see the large market, with the colourful
stalls and the people.
