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TIMBUKTU

The pearl of the desert

 Timbuktu still has a magical sound and an air of mystery. It has had held a fascination for many explorers. Originally it was a nomadic campement around a well ;  it became a major stop for the Azalaï ( the salt caravans) on the Trans-Sahara Route and during the Sonrai Empire it developed into an important commercial city, where tradesmen from the Sahara met the tradesmen from the south. 

There was an unprecedented wealth – they exported  salt, silk, spices, copper and tin and from the south by pinasses came gold, ivory, slaves, textiles, dates, figues etc.

Also on the cultural level Timbuktu bloomed during the reign of Mansa Kankou Moussa.  The Sankoré mosque was extended and housed a Medersa (university), where well known professors from Fez and Caïro came to study.

There must have been around 25.000 students in this university and the 180 Koran Schools (madrassa). They had  a library at their disposition, where they could find books about theology, philosophy, law, rhetorics and Arab languages. Professor Ahmet Baba was the major scholar of his time.

 

The townscape of Timbuktu is distinghuished by the large historic palaces of the middle class, built in the Sudanese styles, with beautiful, heavily  decorated doors. Nowadays usually large patriarchial grand families live there.

 Even if the city has lost its splendour of that time, you can still see the remains of the heyday (period of glory), like:

*      the mosque of Sankoré:  description see above

*      the Djingerei-Ber Mosque: it was built in 1325 in a  pyramid shape by a Spanish architect, assigned by Emperor Kankou Moussa. Characteristic are its nine rows of massiv pillars, 3 courtyards, 2 minarets and a prayer room for 2000 people.  It is the only mosque in Mali where you can enter as a non-Muslim.  

*      the mosque of Sidi Yahia: Sidi Yahia was an Imam, a benefactor and the patron of the city in the 15th century. This mosque is the best maintained one. It profits form a restoration project by  the Ministry of Culture.  All 3 mosques are on the list of World Inheritance of Unesco.

*      the Houses of the explorers Gordon Laing (British, arrived in 1826), Rene Caillié (French, arrived in 1828) and Herinrich Barth (German, arrived in1853). There were 2 more explorers (American and Australian) but their houses have been destroyed.

*      the library of Ahmed Baba: in this center you can see a collection of more than 20.000 manuscripts, many of which were owned by the families in the city. (it is believed that there are 60 privat libraries in Timbuktu, among which the library of Mamma Haïdara and the library Fondo Mahmoud-Kati and the house library of Mohamed Bagayogo).    Some of these manuscripts date from the 12th  century and  are written in Arabic and Fulani ( the language of the local scholars). The subjects of the library range from science to law, astronomy, botany, music, religion and commerce.  The government has started a programme to restore these valuable documents.

 Besides the historic buildings there is:

*      the Well of Bouctou: is said to be the foundation of the city; a woman, called Bouctou, guarded the luggage of the passing tradesmen and the well, which was called “Tin”in a local language.

*      The well is in the courtyard of  the Timbuktu Koy Batouma; the municipal museum. The collections are mainly weapons and traditional finery, as well as various objects of the cultures of the Songhaï, Tamasheq, Maures and Peul.

*      the Art Center Yoboutawo Market: where artisans are making tapestry nomad style, and the beautiful, special Tuareg jewellery. You may also find the filigree work of straw, wax and henna; they make toys and puppets.

*      the Big Market: outside the city center; it used to be the place where the caravaneers and tradesmen exchanged goods.

*      The Flame of Peace:  at the district Abaradjou.  It is a monument, commemorating the end of the rebellion in Mali in 1996. Around the monument are lots of rifles and four silhouettes, holding a torch.

*      Visit the Sand gardens: just outside the city you can find the small green squares, like a mosaic scattered around the wells, where the women grow their vegetables.

*      Roam the narrow streets on your own and enjoy the city life. You will see the famous clay ovens, where the women bring the dough. 30 minutes later they can collect their bread,  the children playing in the sand, the “blue men”- the Tuaregs with their turbans, men who have the tea ceremonies, the women in their colourful boubous,the smiles and maybe a saltcaravan, coming into town or take a camelride into the Sahara ( at sunset the most prettiest).

And of course:

*      The Festival in the Desert at Essakane, which is held in the month of January ( see the separate article about the Festival)

  

 

 

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